JZ Swap S-Chassis FAQ

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JZ Swap S-Chassis FAQ

Post  Flicktitty on Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:29 pm

I am doing this cause i have it posted on Zilvia and zilvia.net's servers crash and go down alot. and i'd rather not loose it.

i started putting this together to help some people, now i figure i will release it to EVERYONE. i know it's not complete, but there is alot of good information here. and i know there is other ways to do this swap, but this is what worked for me. I would appreciate ANY and ALL feedback on this. Also to you fellow JZ swappers if you have any helpful hints/tips/tricks or other ideas please post them and i can incorporate them into the original post.

Mods is there chance this could get stickied in order to cut down on some of the questions people ask about the JZ swapped 24sx's?

Also - I will be adding and editing more info and pictures and helpful links to this thread as i get more free time.

So i decided i would put this together to help current and future 2JZGTE swapping 240sx people out at least a little bit. There already is a lot of information on doing this swap, but it is spread all across the Internet, so i though i would put together a thread where most if not all the information is here at your finger tips. Here you will find parts, pictures and random information that i think could be helpful, if you have something you feel should be added to this, just respond in this thread or PM me or you can email me at flicktitty@gmail.com

Section 1: Getting to know the 2JZ-GTE

First, i urge you to take a look at the Toyota JZ Engine Wikipedia page to familiarize yourself with the 2JZGTE. View the wikipedia page here: Toyota JZ engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Now what 2JZGTE should i put in my car you ask? Well the choice for 95% of us is the JDM 2JZGTE, as it is much more accesable and cheaper then finding a 2JZ out of a crashed MKIV Toyota Supra. What is the differance you ask? well look no further.

- Different turbochargers
(stainless steel for USDM models CT12A, ceramic for JDM models CT20)
- Camshafts
- Larger injectors (550 cc/min slow impedance, requires resistor pack for USDM model, 440 cc/min high impedance for JDM models )
- The USDM 2JZ has a EGR where as the JDM one does not. (JDM head can be drilled out and is already tapped for bolts!)
- The USDM 2JZ runs off afm/maf + map, where as the JDM one is map based, no afm
- The USDM Waterpump with back half need to replace the JDM water pump and housing.

Section 2: What you are going to need
You will need alot of things to get a 2JZGTE in and running in a 240sx, below you will find a complete list of what you will need to get your car on the road.

- 2JZGTE pullout (Motor/trans/wiring/accessories) *Check Section 3 for more information*

- Custom engine swap kit mounts. *Check Section 4 for swap kit information*

- Wiring kit (weather you pay for it or do it on your own) *Check Section 5 for more information*

- OEM Toyota supra parts, included is a water pump (if you are using a JDM 2JZ as the water pump is different and has extra port for coolant that will not work.), thermostat, it would be a good time to change the timing belt and the serpentine belt, if you have a few extra bucks not a bad idea to get a new oil pump. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to replace the belt tensioners either (timing and serpentine)

JDM Waterpump that won't work:

USDM Waterpump that WILL work:

- Intercooler. You could use a factory sidemount intcooler or upgrade to a front mount. I used a Godspeed front mount intercooler fitted for a Nissan 240sx S13. and then bought CXRacing intercooler piping for a JZA80 (MKIV) Supra and make it work, and it works very well for both single turbo and twin turbo applications.

- Downpipe. This depends greatly on what you do. if you go with a single turbo, most off the shelf down pipes will work (I used the CXRacing 3” V-band downpipe off ebay).
(Pic of said CXRacing downpipe)

If you are using the JDM factory twin turbos you will need to source a jdm downpipe which used to be hard to find, but you can find them on ebay now. Just search “JZA80 front pipe, 1st pipe or decat. and it will show up. here is a picture of what you will need.
(Pic of said jdm downpipe)

If you are using the USDM Twin turbos you can use pretty much any off the shelf JZA80 (MKIV) downpipe. i used the Tanabe with great fitment.The supraforums guy's all say the best off the shelf downpipe for a factory USDM twinturbo's is the RMM downpipe, which has since been discontinued so you will have to find one used.
(Pick of said RMM downpipe)

I Suggest getting some heat wrap and wrap your downpipe for added piece of mind do to the extreme under hood temps the 2JZ creates in a 240sx.

- Exhaust. This is where you can have some fun, you can use ANY off the shelf Nissan S-chassis exhaust you so choose to use, but you will need to either take a trip to an exhaust shop, or make your own cross over pipe from the downpipe to the factory cat-back exhaust.
This is how most people have theres done.

- Fuel pump. the “easiest” option for most people is to go with a single Walbro 255 fuel pumps, you can find them all day long well under $100. You could go with a more custom setup using a factory Toyota supra twin turbo Denso pump or a Bosch pump. here is some good information on fuel pumps. You could even go with a large external or a custom internal setup, all depends on your needs and your budget. Other GREAT pump choices are the Aeromotive 300 STEALTH pump, as well as the DEATCHWERKS 300 pump which flows closer to 320-330lph and is silent!

- Radiator. I have seen some pictures of people using the factory 240sx radiators with a 2JZ swap, and i have NO IDEA how or IF they are keeping them cool. I ran a CXRacing aluminum radiator for a year and had a ton of cooling issues. so i upgraded to a Koyo Aluminum radiator and a custom oil cooler setup since then the car has ran A LOT cooler, so invest in a QUALITY radiator and i would look into doing a oil cooler as well (More oil cooler info in the Section 6 Bolt on and modification section) You can either use a Ka24de radiator, and cut a few inches off of the upper water neck on your 2JZ and get a custom radiator hose from Napa. and you can use a factory Supra Twin Turbo lower radiator hose for the lower. Or you can use a SR20DET radiator, and you can use factory upper and lower Supra TT radiator hoses. but the upper will be a little short. you can also modify your upper radiator neck and move it over a few inches to use a factory upper hose.

- Electric fans - get the slimmest dual 12” fans you can find, cause fitment is crucial. i have ran “ebay style” dual 12” fans on a switch and they seem to have worked fine!

- Dakota Digital stuff. You will need a speedo and tach interface to allow you to use your factory 240sx gauges with your new 2JZ-GTE. You will also need a magnetic pick up coil to get your rpm off your R154 or V160 (if you run a automatic you do no need this) Speedometer & Tachometer Interfaces

- Pulley kit. You will need a new Waterpump pulley, you can either get a OEM toyota one or you can get a Greddy pulley kit which usually runs $300 + or you can get a ebay aluminum pulley kit which can be had for right around $100. This is do to the jdm waterpump not having a matching pulley that will work on a USDM waterpump.

- Heater hoses. Well let me start off by saying MOST of the off the shelf kits make having heat on a factory twin turbo 2JZ S13 near impossible as one of the heater core fittings on the firewall pretty much touches the rear turbo housing. so during the time i ran the factory USDM twin turbos i had no heat, which sucks. Once i went single turbo i was able to get heat, so i just got some heater hose from Napa and hooked it up, pretty straight forward. i would suggest getting some self adhesive heat wrap for the heater hoses for how close it is to the turbo / downpipe.

- Sway bar spacers or differant front sway bar. do to the fitment of the 2JZ oil pan the factory sway bar will NOT fit. you can either get a spacer made to lower the sway bar the 1 ½” - 2” you need. or you can get a SIKKY front sway bar. they make a sway bar to clear LSX swapped 240sx’s and these WILL clear your 2JZ.

- Gauges. One of thee most important things you can get when doing a swap. i recommend getting the following gauges. Water temp gauge -VERY important as 2JZ 240sx’s run very hot.
Oil tempeture and Oil pressure is also high on that list. if you want to do a nice way of doing the oil pressure you can use the IS300 bolt trick, found here (http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/oil_sensor_mod/index.html) To do a oil temp you could get a sandwhich adapter with a port for a gauge. the adapter size you will need for a 2JZ is (3/4 unf -16) You should odviously also get a boost gauge, as well as it would be smart to get a Wideband o2.

- Battery relocation and battery. face it your Ka battery wont keep up with the 2JZ invest in a little bigger one, you will need to relocate your battery to the trunk, unless you try and use one of the ½ sized batteries that are on the market.

- Fuel line. You will need to get a few feet of fuel line, as the KA24/SR/RB/etc all have the fuel rail on the right side, and the 2JZ is on the left you will need to make your lines go to the other side of the engine bay, not a big deal, here is one way you can do it. Also as a side note, i happened to use a Z32 Fuel filter as well worked fine.

- Power steering lines I used the factory 240sx hi pressure line (it was leaking when it was a KA24DE) Then i replaced it with a Stainless steel ISIS power steering line. I plan on swapping this out again later this year in favor of a custom power steering line i will be making with all black lines and fittings and i will then market it to the 2JZ-S-Chassis community. Though the ISIS line does work awesome.

- Don’t forget little things, Coolant (Toyota recommends using TOYOTA RED coolant USE IT!) ATF fluid for your power steering (Toyota recommends using ATF for your power steering pump)

Section 3: Where to find your 2JZ-GTE

There are many online places that claim they can get you 2JZGTE’s some i have seen have been junk, i got mine from FNFmotors.ca in Canada and it came i pretty good shape, there was NO IGNITOR, so i had to source one, not all places include one. also they sent me a 2JZGE (non turbo ecu) so be sure to check what you get. i would encourage alot of you guy’s to check out Robert @ Zerolift autofab as he has great prices and everything i have heard is top notch. plus he is in the United states where most places are in Canada. You can also check JDMEngine World they are reasonably priced and are in the New Jersey/New York area. if you have gotten a SR20/RB/B16/Etc swaps in the past, check out where you got your previous motor they should be able to source you one.

you can check Ebay.com once in a while you can find a complete USDM motor/trans/etc.

You can also keep an eye out on ClubLexus.com as well as Supraforums.com for people who are parting out cars and what. Don’t forget you can still get a 2JZGTE straight from Toyota still to this day!


Section 4: Swap kits
There are a few companies out there that offer swap kits and they range anywhere from just $300 all the way up to $1,500. here are a few of the mount kits.

Who: Tech2 Motorsports
Cost: $1,550 and a $200.00 Core charge for your stock cross member.
Whats included: Modified stock cross member, Transmission mount, Drive shaft for R154, shifter extension, and the Tech2 2JZ swap DVD.

I personally run this kit, so i will go a little more in depth with this kit. The kit uses your factory 240sx cross member and basically cut part of it off, and welds on a flat piece that allows you to use the factory Toyota Aristo (JDM 2JZGTE) mounts. The driveshaft seems to be a high quality piece as well, although i did have some errors with it at first which made me send it back to get redone then sent back to me and i still needed to buy an extra piece (this was to run the A340e automatic)

- Fitment works, and no real guessing games as some of the hard stuff has been done for you.
- Stock OE look, which is nice.

- Price, it is way more expensive then it should be. for someone to just modify your stock cross member which looks like it doesn't take more then an hour, and it just uses stock Aristo 2JZGTE mounts.
- Modifies your stock cross member, which as far as i knows will not allow you to compete in some drifting organizations.

Here is a pic when i got mine.

You can also buy Aristo/Soarer/SC/etc motor mounts and modify your crossmember to look like the TECH2 Kit.
Originally Posted by Flicktitty View Post
This is what a modified crossmember will look like.

just for referance too, when i got the Tech2 kit this is how it came.

note the crossmemeber modification vs. the stock crossmember below.


Who: MyJZswap.com
Cost:$475 - $1350
Whats included: Unlike most swap places, MyJZswap allows you to pick and choose what you want and what you don’t want. which for most people will be extremely helpful, also it allows you to buy parts as you have the cash instead of having to have all the money right away up front, if you’re one of those people who don’t like credit cards.

They offer a “basic” kit for $475 that is just the custom mounts that you will need to make your 2JZGTE fit in a 240sx.
They also offer a “full” kit for $1350 which includes the custom engine and transmission mounts, shifter extension as well as the drive shaft in either aluminum or steel (Aluminum add $125)

This kit is legal for use in racing classes that allow engine swaps. It does not modify the fire wall or the cross member. This is a truly bolt on kit! I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in, But i have had alot of experiance with Sean and Rodney the founders of MyJZswap.com and if i ever was to go through with this swap again THIS IS THE KIT I WOULD USE. *NOTE: AS OF THE END OF 2011 THEY HAVE SINCE "CLOSED" I THINK I MAY BE ABLE TO GET THE MOUNTS THROUGH THE FRIEND WHO HELPED SEAN PALMQUIST*

pic from their site:

Who: Zerolift / Ruckus racing mounts.
Cost: $350
Whats included: Custom engine mounts that use stock cross member and a custom transmission mount.

Zerolift bought the rights to the old “ruckus racing” motor mounts. so they are the same mounts just under a new name. I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in.

Originally Posted by Syncade View Post
Update the Ruckus Racing/Zerolift Mounts to "Terrible - Stay away"
I bent mine before the car was even driven hard. Zerolift offers no help or signs of caring.
Just an FYI for fellow members!

pic from their site:

Who: DM-spec.com
Cost $200 - $500
Whats included: they offer a few ranges of mounting kits, for $200 they will give you the custom metal mounts and you can use your existing KA24 or SR20 rubber mounts, add $220 if you want Nismo motor mounts or add $170 if you would rather have the Megan motor mount. Also add $78 if you want a new R154 Toyota bushing.

I’ve had no first had experience with them so i can’t say anything good or bad, hopefully someone will chime in.

*AS of 5/11/11 there site seems to have an error and i cannot access it.


Freed Engineering

he engine as low and far back as possible, even fits with the GE intake manifold (only tested in the S14 so far). Designed, cut and welded here in our shop.
We don't have much info on the site, must call to order for now but we are working on getting the web store up and running

mounts $500 (R154 or V160)
driveshaft $450 (R154 or V160)
wiring service $500
shifter extension $250 + core

this car has one of the first few sets I sold: ~ESSENCE~ S14 1jz build


- TheTurboDave also makes a mount kit
These mounts allow the use of any 2JZGTE/2JZGE/1JZGTE engine with ANY TOYOTA TRANSMISSION COMBO. Whether you have the W58,R154, 6Speed, or Automatic our rear crossmember mount is adjustable to fit any combination. NO CHASSIS MODIFICATION . You will retain all of your factory suspension geometry, crossmember, and rack an pinion. It truly is a bolt in swap now These mounts have been used in all or JZ swaps since late 2005.

$360 for the steel mounts and $800 for the Aluminum mount kit.


- KS Racing also makes a mount kit as well for roughly $200 you can find them on ebay, they are from Thailand though... so shipping costs and time will be longer then the us suppliers.

- There is also a few “ebay” swap kits that range from $160 - $200. they are your typical metal mount and rubber bushing design. not much information availible.

Section 5: Wiring

Arguably one of thee hardest things to concur while doing a 2JZ/1JZ in a 240sx. And still to this day hard facts and solid diagrams and layouts are pretty much non existent....unless you are willing to pay for that information.

There are pretty much two way’s you can wire up your 2JZ/1JZ 240sx. The first one, and the most simple is PAY someone else to do it for you.That is what i did and let me tell you something it was the best choice for me, as i have little to no wiring skills. I sent my harness out to Sean Palmquist (Owner of myjzswap.com) While he was still at Tech2motorsports, he has since left there and started MyJZswap.com. Tech2 still offers a harness service, but i haven’t heard much good or bad or much of anything from Tech2 since Sean left. There are other members of Various forums who claim they can do it for a small fee as well. One of them Dave “Z U L8R” On Zilvia.net says he will do them for a fee. I have seen talks of the guys over at Chasebays.com wanting to do a wiring harness for a JZ powered 240sx, so you could consider looking into them as well. KS racing from Thailand also makes claims of offering a wiring service. There is also Pheonixtuning AKA “Dr. Tweek”. Who has had many mixed reviews and i have heard of many of his customers needing to send there harness out to other people to get fixed. TurboDave also does a wiring service for between $350 and $750 price depends on if you have a core or not. You can expect to pay anywhere from $400 on up to $800 to get your wiring done depending on who and what you need done to the harness. Like stated i used Sean@MyJZswap.com and will continue to go back to him for any and all of my wiring needs, He has gone above and beyond to help get my car and countless other customer cars out on the road.

The Second option is learn how to do it yourself, download the Aristo/Supra wiring schematics and the 240sx of your ownership and get to work, good luck. As i have never done this i do not have much information on this current stage, so i will try and update this with any and all wiring information i find from this point on.

some of my .02 on the wiring subject: I've read many threads with people banging there head against the wall and i have gotten countless pm's and emails and messages though youtube,zilvia,nico,supraforums,etc. about how the wiring was done and how people can't get pthere car to start or stay running. I know of a few people who "did the wiring them selves to save money" and they couldn't figure it out, so they took the car to shops to have them do it, where they had to pay labor rate AND for all the new parts that a shop will say is "bad" and should be replaced, or have just decided after spending countless hours trying to do it themselves that they should send it out to a professional. Really makes the $400-800 price for a harness service seem like a good value.

UPDATE (7/20/11) 2JZ-GE Wiring information: http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/390883-2jz-wiring.html
UPDATE (9/30/11) 2JZ-GTE Wiring information: http://zilvia.net/f/chat/409603-2jzgte-build-wiring-real-cost.html

Section 6: Bolt on’s and modifications

This is where the fun stuff happens. this is all about doing what you want. You could go mild to WILD.

keep in mind these cars run warm so i would strongly recommend a oil cooler. if you don’t want to purchase an off the shelf one or custom make one yourself feel free to email me [Flicktitty@gmail.com], cause i am offering a full oil cooler setup for a 2JZ-S13/S14 using a high quality cooler quality lines as well as fittings and sandwich adapter. You can however order a Greddy/Trust/HKS kit but those are about $500+

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